Urethane mounts are a great way to control drive line lash. In other cases, we completely fabricate our own design, new metal mounts with our urethane inserts. In some cases we simply replace the stock rubber with Urethane inserts utilizing the stock metal mount casings. Urethane Engine Mounts from AWR benefits both street and track cars. Instead of wasted torque turning the engine and trans in their mounts, the power is put to the ground right away. With AWR’s urethane engine mounts, you’ll benefit by reducing or eliminating drive line lash, as well as by receiving better throttle response. You step on the throttle and some of the torque is used to twist the engine in it’s mounts, rather than going through the drive line to the wheels. The downside to these soft mounts is drive line lash. In addition to using soft rubber, some mounts are liquid filled or have holes cut in the rubber to make them even more flexible. Many factory engine mounts are too soft, in an effort by the factory to control vibration and quiet the interior of the car. See our Warranty Page for further details.ĪWR builds a variety of polyurethane Engine Mounts. What’s more, this warranty, excluding bushings is retroactive to all mounts built previously by AWR. I'm sure I'm missing stuff, but that's what I remember off the top of my head.AWR engine mounts now carry a limited lifetime warranty.
It's going to be real tight but it's possible. Make sure the engine is supported before removing the mount.Use tons of extensions from harbor freight to break the bolts loose from above with a breaker bar (not a ratchet!!).Grind the infamous stud off the firewall with a Dremel tool.I also jacked up the car to reach stuff from below.This is so that you can get a bunch of extensions through the passenger side wheel well to reach the through-bolt in the mount. Take the wheels off, or at least the passenger side.I didn't remove the intake manifold or throttle body, but I probably would remove the throttle body if I was doing it again because it gives a bit of extra space.Remove stuff that's in the way (strut brace, intake tube, battery, etc.).I remember the general process going something like this. Lol 😁Ĭlick to expand.It's familiar enough to me that I could answer questions if you have them. I am inspired to the point that I want to share my success story and inspire other Protege owners to tackle this challenge and restore smooth driving to their cars. I might make a guide on how I did mine, if it's helpful to anybody. I replaced the OEM mount with another OEM mount which I filled with some PU sealant (40 duro I think). Oh, and my hands which got pretty banged up. Ironically, the only casualty was my Craftsman ratchet (RIP) which I admittedly put too much torque on while trying to break the nuts loose. I used $17 in low quality Harbor Freight extensions and u-joints, which surprisingly did the job. It was definitely hard, but absolutely worth the work. Bought the car over a year ago with the mount being shot, and I definitely convinced myself that it was going to be the worst thing in the flippin universe to replace, having read a lot of stuff about it on here. It went about as well as I think it could have. I was able to do it without removing my intake manifold or throttlebody, in the span of about 4-5 hours. I successfully replaced my rear motor mount.
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